Best New Restaurants in St. Louis of 2020-21 Honor the Bright Spots Under the Pandemic Cloud | Off menu

Su Hill in Chiang Mai, his restaurant in Webster Groves

Photo by Colter Peterson, post-expedition

I ate many great take-out foods during the pandemic, but nothing transcended its packaging and transportation better than the northern Thai food at Su Hill’s Webster Groves restaurant. Hill is inspired by the cuisine of his childhood home in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and a career in the restaurant and hospitality industry that already includes the Cape Girardeau, Missouri, Bistro Saffron restaurant.

In Saint-Louis, she grills lively and juicy sai oua (pork sausage) and roasts tender gra dook moo (ribs) with garlic and honey. The heat of Hill’s khao soi and hanging curry is both tangy and delicate, their recipes refined yet still touching.

Chiang Mai serves traditional Thai and regional cuisine

Sai oua (pork sausage) in Chiang Mai at Webster Groves

Photo by Colter Peterson, post-expedition

In Chiang Mai, Hill also reinforces one of St. Louis’s outstanding restaurant families. His three sisters and his nephew all operate excellent restaurants: Nippon Tei by Ann Bognar; Sushi Koi by Whitney Yoon; Rice Thai Bistro by Nina Prapaisilpa and her husband, Bryan; and Indo by Nick Bognar, Ann’s son.

When I finally visited the Chiang Mai Dining Room this fall, the quality and vibrancy of Hill’s cuisine exceeded the already high expectations his take-out had set. An appetizer order of kab moo (pork rinds) continued to sizzle and pop at the table, demanding my attention. Chiang Mai and Su Hill deserve yours.

Or 8158 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves • More information 314-961-8889;

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